ISABELA I can only describe Isabela as the lost world meets tropical paradise. The largest island on the Galápagos, it has mist-hidden volcanoes, dramatic escarpments, and unearthly Opuntia forests; but it’s also blessed with a sublime number of white sand beaches and aquamarine seas. If you’re on a land-based DIY itinerary like we were, you’ll stay … More A GUIDE TO ISABELA


Few places loom as large in the naturalist’s mind as the Galápagos. To me, they had reached near mythical status as the volcanic islands that Darwin had visited, teeming with endemic species that had no fear of humans. Every year I was in Ecuador on fieldwork I toyed with the idea of heading out to … More GALÁPAGOS