SAN CRISTÓBAL To us, San Cristóbal was ‘sea lion island’ – there were more of the pinnipeds living here, cheek by jowl with humans, than anywhere else we’d seen. The third stop on our Galápagos itinerary is home to both its second largest settlement and its administrative centre, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. It’s a nice wee … More A GUIDE TO SAN CRISTÓBAL
ISABELA I can only describe Isabela as the lost world meets tropical paradise. The largest island on the Galápagos, it has mist-hidden volcanoes, dramatic escarpments, and unearthly Opuntia forests; but it’s also blessed with a sublime number of white sand beaches and aquamarine seas. If you’re on a land-based DIY itinerary like we were, you’ll stay … More A GUIDE TO ISABELA
SANTA CRUZ In all likelihood, the island of Santa Cruz will provide your introduction to the Galápagos. The islands’ main airport is on the nearby tiny island of Baltra, from which a series of buses, boats and taxis will get you to the town of Puerto Ayora (I’ve included a section at the end of … More A GUIDE TO SANTA CRUZ
Few places loom as large in the naturalist’s mind as the Galápagos. To me, they had reached near mythical status as the volcanic islands that Darwin had visited, teeming with endemic species that had no fear of humans. Every year I was in Ecuador on fieldwork I toyed with the idea of heading out to … More GALÁPAGOS
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